As Tom Stubbs noticed in his glorious Italy-focused preview piece Pitti Uomo for Runway, Brunello Cucinelli is an epitome in attire of the farm-to-table philosophy that makes this nation impartial. And like all genuine Italian bottegas, Cucinelli is an impartial, family-owned enterprise. Nonetheless, whereas he’s nonetheless very a lot in cost, his patriarch is slowly delegating operational energy to the following technology.
Which is why, after an invigorating espresso with the large boss, Runway went over the main points of those items with Alessio Piastrelli, Cucinelli’s borderline, annoyingly good-looking son-in-law and husband of Carolina Cucinelli. “You are not going to search out many patterns this season,” he warned. “However you will note many various shades of colour and textures.”
Piastrelli went on to disclose that in a typical Cucinelli menswear assortment, the crew follows a three:20 golden ratio, or about 15 %, in terms of imposing colour in opposition to impartial. This season, he stated, about 30 % of the garments got here in what the crew counted as colours; a smooth purple he referred to as ‘ginger’, an adjoining smoked salmon orange, a sunflower yellow, an especially muted olive inexperienced (radical for Cucinelli, who distrusts colour in menswear), and blues. Maybe most shocking was the colorless black part, which, aside from tuxedos, is an especially uncommon place on this specific home’s menswear output.
“We actually imagine within the go well with,” Piastrelli stated, and the tailor-made two-piece go well with was very effectively represented. Nonetheless, along with being historically displayed from head to toe, with noticeably wider and longer trousers this season, Cucinelli’s tailoring has additionally been built-in with different dialects in menswear. About 20 per cent of trousers featured cargo-style button-down patch pockets, and generally button-down shirts have been eschewed for knitted rugby shirts or coloured t-shirts. Sneakers included extremely polished loafers, but in addition color-blocked skate-style sneakers. A black leather-based biker, a calmly washed ultra-soft denim trucker, or a good-looking khaki safari in perforated suede have been featured as occasional punctuation alongside soft-shouldered tailoring. Cucinelli’s all-Italian, hand-grown substances stay persistently and durably of the best high quality. Every season, nevertheless, he and his household of menswear cooks subtly reconfigure the recipes on his traditional menswear menu to make sure the style of his by no means goes stale.