It has been 4 years since Gherardo Felloni took the helm as Roger Vivier’s artistic director, ushering in a brand new period for the posh heritage footwear model that has centered round “Lodge Vivier,” an immersive (and touring) set up ) designed to make the assertion – making footwear and luggage from each season, with exaggerated work which have included every part from opera singers, furry boudoirs and ASMR periods to the purple velvet curtains of “Twin Peaks” and even a gaggle Catherine Deneauve’s döppelgangers from “Belle of the day”.
However for his spring-summer 23 presentation (all the time a extremely anticipated occasion at Paris Trend Week), Felloni modified issues, ending the Lodge Vivier’s run and hanging a brand new neon signal on the wall: “Maison de Stay”.
“It is time for savoir faire,” Felloni stated in an interview forward of Vivier’s unveiling on Thursday. “On this world of social networks, we shortly lose info, no one has a reminiscence (anymore). Lodge Vivier was an excellent success however I [wanted to] give attention to the values of the home.”
To do this, Felloni put in artisans in each room of the present, from a buckle knowledgeable wrapping with pastel coatings, to a rhinestone specialist setting gems on a glittery heel, to a cobbler hand-wrapping an embroidered strap. and with an accent bow.
The craftsmen sat in very Vivier rooms that also captured the spirit of the Lodge Vivier however had been additionally decidedly extra demure. Within the lounge, a gaggle of fashions sat amongst a mattress of flowers studying books and carrying 1960s-inspired buckled, lace-up boots. There was nonetheless a little bit of ASMR left, courtesy of fluffy fringed purses hanging on the purse wall (begging to be touched) and a glittery room the place a large disco ball sat within the center, surrounded by the designer’s disco ball ( and the disco bucket) heels
The whole assortment drew on particular shapes, types and motifs from the Roger Vivier archives, from the buckle to the Choc and Virgule heels, the embroideries and jewellery strategies that made Vivier a visionary (the designer died in 1998). Felloni has used many of those particulars in earlier collections, however this season has had some extra classic touches, resembling white go-go boots, charming bows and a colour palette of acid tones from the sixties.
Nonetheless, Felloni insists he places the archives the place they belong when he designs for his collections. And whereas the designer has additionally befriended many stars throughout his tenure, he, too, is reluctant to level to particular archetypes in Vivier’s realm.
“I do not like the concept of categorizing girls. Ladies are what they need to do, what they need to be, so I do not need to simply say ‘oh I like the celebration lady’ or ‘I like the mental,’” Felloni stated. “Should you take a look at the actresses I work with, they’re all fully completely different. I am drawn to expertise, girls who’ve character, who’ve confidence, that is one thing that draws me as a designer. Roger Vivier was like that too. He was coping with wonderful, assured, highly effective girls, like Queen Elizabeth and Marlene Dietrich.”
Extra just lately, Felloni has added Emilia Jones to his circle. The British actress, who attended the model launch on Thursday, will star in “Fairyland,” produced by Sofia Coppola. Rumor has it that Vivier might also have a cameo.
As for what girls need to put on now, in an nearly post-pandemic world? Felloni says it is about alternative.
“Ladies are freer day by day. And freedom is freedom, so you may’t management it, and it is actually arduous to say what girls ought to or ought to put on immediately. Whenever you’re free, you will have much less of a taboo,” the designer stated, talking strictly sartorially however with current-event undertones. “[Fashion] it’s a manifesto about what is occurring. My aim is to make this model a residing maison immediately for the ladies who’re alive immediately.”