Italy opens males’s style season with Pitti Uomo, Milan Trend Week

The Fall/Winter 2024-25 season begins on Tuesday, January 9 with a males’s style week in Italy. The primary cease is Florence for Pitti Uomo, the world’s largest males’s style honest, whose theme this 12 months, “time,” is mirrored within the motto “Pitti Time.” The occasion will function a number of prestigious particular visitors and can finish on January 12. It is going to be instantly adopted by Milan Trend Week, which is able to finish on January 16 and can function 22 exhibits, with, amongst others, returns from Fendi, Gucci and Philipp Plein and a debut present from Stone Island.

Virtually 832 exhibitors have registered for the 105th version of Pitti Uomo, 46% of them from outdoors Italy, in comparison with 825 final June and 789 in January 2023. The main focus is on the worldwide design, as demonstrated new german, a brand new part devoted to the newest era of German designers, the Margaret Howell exhibition specializing in the covers of Architectural Evaluate journal and the collaboration with the French males’s style affiliation Promas, specifically with the inaugural displays of the manufacturers Ouest Paris and Valette Studio. As a substitute, the S Type part, considered one of Pitti Uomo’s most fascinating latest initiatives, launched in 2020 to advertise new sustainable and avant-garde worldwide labels, was suspended.

Among the many must-see occasions at Pitti Uomo 105 is the present by American designer Todd Snyder, who will open the celebration along with his return to the catwalk. Snyder, who in 2011 based his eponymous model in New York, the place he has been exhibiting till 4 years in the past, will unveil for the event the Woolrich Black Label by Todd Snyder assortment, a brand new premium Heritage line from Woolrich, the American model whose Snyder fashion now could be supervising. The gathering will even be introduced in Milan.

Subsequent Wednesday, Pitti Uomo will welcome Luca Magliano, who returns to carry out in Florence precisely six years after debuting there along with his Magliano label, whose very private fashion is influenced by totally different subcultures. On Thursday, January 11, Finnish designer Achilles Ion Gabriel, artistic director of Camper, will current a present by which he’ll current the primary assortment of his new model of the identical title. The day will finish with a present by Steven Stokey Daley, the Liverpool designer who received the LVMH Prize in 2022. Specializing in subtle and ingenious menswear, Stokey Daley renews the codes of conventional British magnificence along with his model SS Daley, launched in 2020.

Milan Males’s Trend Week will take over from Pitti Uomo and open on January 12 with Gucci. The Italian luxurious model returns to the lads’s calendar with the primary assortment designed by Sabato De Sarno. On the identical day, one other first, the present of Stone Island, the avant-garde high-tech outerwear model purchased by the Moncler group in 2021, an occasion that guarantees to be dazzling. Additionally returning to the Milan calendar are, amongst others, Philipp Plein, whose males’s clothes was usually displayed alongside ladies’s; Fendi, again in Milan after presenting his males’s assortment in Florence final June; and Okay-Method, which is proven solely throughout the winter season.

This season, Milan should do with out large names reminiscent of Valentino, one of many fundamental sights of the month of June, which has chosen to return to Paris, and Etro, which has determined to concentrate on a brand new bespoke males’s tailoring undertaking, introduced this week. , whereas its common menswear can be proven alongside womenswear in February. 1017 Alyx 9SM, the model by American designer Matthew M. Williams purchased by Hong Kong billionaire Adrian Cheng, additionally leaves Milan, the place it has been on show since January 2022.

Three different labels have additionally left the Milanese calendar: 44 Label Group, based by Berlin DJ and producer Max Kobosil underneath the auspices of businessman Claudio Antonioli; Loverboy, the model of Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey, which is leaving Milan Trend Week after three seasons; and Magliano, this 12 months’s visitor of honor at Pitti Uomo.

Like final season, Milan Males’s Trend Week will function a diminished program with 22 exhibits, together with a Giorgio Armani double. The occasion will run over two full days and two half days, with the addition of 5 digital packages broadcast throughout the closing morning, Tuesday, January 16. In whole, there are 74 occasions on the calendar, up from 72 in June. together with exhibits by high Italian names reminiscent of Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Zegna, plus a number of displays and particular occasions.

On Sunday, January 14, Pronounce will debut, an Italian-Chinese language males’s style model launched in 2016 by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, which till now has been current in London. The efficiency program contains the debuts of Domenico Orefice, Establishment by Galib Gassanoff, LaTorre, Mordecai, Noskra, Rubeus Milano, Stuart Weitzman, ViaPiave33 and Woolrich Black Label by Todd Snyder, in addition to the return of Philippe Mannequin Paris, underneath the course of a brand new artistic director. Tuomas Merikoski.