Milan (AFP) – Animal prints are within the DNA of Italian trend model Roberto Cavalli, however this week, designer Fausto Puglisi turned the animal right into a mineral.
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Puglisi turned his sights to marble for his new assortment at Milan Vogue Week, a brand new flip for the extravagant model recognized for its eye-catching, skin-baring types.
Gone are the model's signature leopard, cheetah, zebra and python prints. As an alternative, Puglisi remodeled these intricate designs into marble veins in engaging shades of grey, beige and white, and even inexperienced, mustard yellow and amethyst.
“I used to be very uninterested in animal print,” the inventive director mentioned backstage after the present.
“Zebra is 20 years in the past.”
If animal skins appeared to have escaped Roberto Cavalli's grasp, they reappeared on Friday at Blumarine, the place newly appointed designer Walter Chiapponi opened his present with a really glamorous (pretend) leopard coat and selected leopard tights as his favourite accent.
Greater than 50 manufacturers will present their Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 girls's collections in Milan this week, attended by greater than 100,00zero trend consumers, media and model representatives.
Whether or not outsized quilted jackets, slinky clothes, trench coats or mini skirts, Puglisi's option to characterize marble was a refreshing change for the model, sacrificing none of its daring and horny spirit, however as an alternative including a contact of decadence. baroque
Puglisi mentioned he was impressed by his private assortment of vintage marble.
“I adore it,” the Sicilian designer mentioned of the colourful marble seen all through Italy, whether or not within the villas of Pompeii or the baroque church buildings of Rome.
A backstage temper board included images of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome and Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, each decadent for his or her ample use of historical marble.
Puglisi mentioned she was initially involved that marble would give garments a chilly really feel. He was confirmed unsuitable.
“The marble may be very chilly, however that is sizzling,” he mentioned.
Bombers and bows
If Cavalli managed to make the chilly sizzling, the manufacturers Max Mara, Fendi and Prada introduced consolation again to the catwalk.
Ribbed and braided knits featured prominently, with new riffs on sweaters from Fendi's Kim Jones, who noticed them as capes or modified shrugs, which solely partially lined the physique however added an additional layer of luxurious.
At Max Mara, inventive director Ian Griffiths opened the present on Thursday with the model's traditional lengthy wool coat, this one in navy blue, a classy and well-heeled look.
In a set impressed by the French author Colette, Griffiths introduced sensual quantity to the backs of the jackets, modifying them into ultra-chic bombers, whereas pink trim on the hems of the lengthy coats gave them a lightweight contact.
A ribbed wool band paying homage to a kimono obi cinched the waist on black pants and skirts, whereas flat panels cascading from the again of a black miniskirt have been a extra minimalist, fashionable tackle ruffles.
At Prada's present on Thursday, fashions walked on a clear raised ground protecting grass and autumn leaves in a present that co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons mentioned was based mostly on reminiscence and historical past.
Strips of silk satin in black, pale pink or grape fluttered down the entrance of sleeveless shift clothes, whereas ethereal, sheer tunics have been embellished with floral garlands in luxurious velvet.
Prada's assortment was marked by a “fusion of masculine sartorial references with lingerie and a strict sharpness juxtaposed with bows and crystals,” mentioned Harrod's purchaser Simon Longland.
Female twin units in contrasting colours (purple and orange right here, pink and moss inexperienced there) have been paired with knee-length wool skirts with thick cuffs on the hem.
Whether or not on the shoulders, waist or bodice, bows dotted the gathering, whereas a wealthy fake sable adorned the shoulders, neckline and hem of the ivory cocktail clothes.
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