LONDON – A spherical of modifications at Condé Nast final yr, which included the departure of Vogue China founding editor Angelica Cheung, Condé Nast China president Sophia Liao, and group editor Paco Tang, has had a profound impression on what the Chinese language vogue media panorama will appear like in 2021 and past.
It’s the first time in 16 years that somebody aside from Cheung, who was usually thought to be probably the most highly effective particular person within the Chinese language vogue trade, will take the lead within the quickly altering Chinese language vogue publishing market, the place manufacturers are getting ready to allocate a big chunk of advert spend this yr.
There are rumors that Cheung may be a part of LVMH China or launch his personal label. And sources informed WWD that Anna Wintour, who was promoted to the corporate’s chief content material officer in December, has been interviewing editor-in-chief sort candidates in Singapore, Hong Kong and Taiwan for Cheung’s substitute.
Many in mainland China see this as a worrying signal that Vogue China’s new editorial director, who will report back to Wintour, might not be capable of sustain with the tempo and course that China’s publishing trade is heading.
Lately, China has moved away from Hollywood, Ok-Pop, and even the Western vogue system, creating a novel ecosystem that meets the rising demand for native celebrities by Chinese language shoppers and a resurgence of Chinese language aesthetics. It displays your personal identification.
Placing worldwide supermodels on the quilt of , which was a promoting level for Vogue China to start with, not resonates as strongly with audiences. The journal’s February subject, the primary below Wintour’s course, that includes Kendall Jenner in a Gucci floral gown in a backyard on the quilt, acquired criticism each on Instagram and on China’s Weibo microblogging web site.
Weibo person Zhengpailicha stated he would unsubscribe from the journal attributable to this abrupt change in visible course, whereas vogue influencer Fashion_Bangz, with four.31 million followers on Weibo, commented “oops …” within the Vogue China put up.
One writer many wish to fill the ability vacuum is Chuxuan Feng, the founding father of Huasheng Media. The group is the editor of the Chinese language editions of T Journal, The New York Instances Journey Journal, Kinfolk, WSJ. Journal, Wallpaper, Nylon, Drift and Fathers Journal, has performed a vital position within the rise of the China-centric aesthetic by collaborating with native inventive skills corresponding to photographer Leslie Zhang, stylist Jeff Li, and Audrey Hu, additionally on productions. like placing a mixture of native actors, administrators, influencers, and canopy advocates to generate buzz on social media.
For instance, T Journal China was the primary journal to persuade actress Fan Bingbing, who made a powerful comeback in 2020 from her tax evasion scandal, to look on the quilt alongside along with her little brother Fan Chengcheng, who’s a member of the favored boy band NEX7, with fits from the Loewe spring 2021 assortment. The Weibo hashtag of them showing on the identical cowl recorded 43 million views.
“Print posts are only one a part of the style media matrix, and a big chunk of Chinese language readers are beginning to get to know the posts by social media, offline occasions, movies, and artistic tasks today,” Feng informed WWD.
“I’ve at all times believed that the standard of content material is the inspiration of any profitable publication. Via vogue publications, Chinese language readers not see it as a catalog or procuring listing, or a spot to learn success tales. You may have Tmall or Xiaohongshu for that. What they’re on the lookout for now could be in-depth experiences, or extra specialised content material, corresponding to a narrative a few sort of beautiful material, or an explainer of the cultural logic behind client merchandise, “he added.
In 2021, Feng believes that the largest problem within the trade will proceed to be the right way to ship resonant content material throughout all platforms, together with print, Weibo, WeChat, the Chinese language model of TikTok Douyin, the Xiaohongshu social buying and selling platform, and the Bilibili video group. .
Whereas some media retailers attribute the disappearance of the affect of print publications in China to the rise of influencers, corresponding to Gogoboi, Mr. Baggage, Austin Li and Rita Wang, Feng stated their relationship with print media is in truth extra aligned than within the West, and each play a key position available in the market.
In addition to creating extra memorable moments for the Chinese language vogue group, such because the well-received January-February subject of Wallpaper China, that includes Chinese language mannequin Zhao Lei and Du Juan on the quilt, photographed by Leslie Zhang, as she attends vogue manufacturers. luxurious. If you wish to successfully affect shoppers, the corporate additionally has plans to develop past publishing.
He opened a bookstore specializing in structure and design at Aranya Artwork Heart in Qinhuangdao, a preferred seaside metropolis in Hebei province the place rich Beijing residents escape for weekend getaways. This yr, he plans to open specialised kids’s bookstores, college artwork galleries, a boutique resort and spend money on a European fragrance model.
As COVID-19 rocked many of the energy gamers in China, together with Fashionable Media, Hearst, and Condé Nast, Huasheng Media has employed a number of media veterans to spearhead the event of its media manufacturers. To call just a few, Anita Chang, a founding member of the Condé Nast Taiwan and China divisions, joined the corporate as Chief Working Officer. Baojian Li, former editor of Vogue China and vogue director of Elle China, took over because the group’s editorial director, normal supervisor and editor-in-chief of WSJ. Journal China, and Anson Chen, former vogue director of GQ China, is now its vogue director and deputy editor.
A decade-long worker at Life-style Media, editor of the Chinese language version of Madame Figaro, So Figaro, Wonderland and OK Journal, Feng obtained monetary assist from Ruigang Li, founding father of China Media Capital, one of many largest media conglomerates in China. China. with sturdy ties to Beijing, and launched Huasheng Media in 2017. Feng additionally serves as vp on the father or mother firm.
One other standout within the turbulent panorama in 2020 was the Chinese language version of Marie Claire. With former Condé Nast Traveler China managing director and GQ China life-style director Alex Solar taking up as editor-in-chief, the journal, which was offered to China’s largest clothes model, Heilan Residence Already a bunch of personal Hearst China buyers in 2018, she managed to proceed constructing a particular visible narrative whereas staying true to the wants of a brand new technology of contemporary Chinese language girls.
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