Southern Cuisine Finds Its Footing in London: A Culinary Evolution

London’s culinary scene is experiencing a Southern renaissance, as American Southern cuisine, particularly Texan barbecue, begins to carve out a niche in the city. Ten years ago, Mursal Saiq, co-owner of Cue Point, recalls a time when many customers were unfamiliar with classic barbecue staples like brisket. Today, the landscape has changed dramatically, with Austin barbecue restaurants like InterStellar BBQ and la Barbecue set to launch a residency at The Ned, signaling a growing appetite for this flavorful fare.

John Bates, owner and pitmaster of InterStellar BBQ, notes the diverse clientele they attract, saying, "Folks in London are mad for barbecue right now!" He emphasizes that their offerings will honor traditional Austin barbecue while also introducing innovative twists, like incorporating ingredients such as kimchi. This spirit of culinary exploration is echoed at Cue Point, where Saiq and her partner Josh Moroney blend Texan barbecue techniques with Afghan recipes, creating unique dishes like brisket served with Afghan naan and pickles that elevate the dining experience.

Other establishments are similarly pushing the boundaries of Southern cuisine. At Hon’s BBQ in Hackney Wick, the Sichuan peppercorn short rib showcases a fusion of flavors that excites the palate. Owner Hon, drawing on his Texas barbecue expertise, maintains a commitment to the core principles of barbecue while allowing creativity to flourish. Meanwhile, Black Cactus offers Caribbean-influenced dishes like brisket croquettes, highlighting the diverse influences that characterize the current Southern food scene in London.

All Roads, which opened in Brixton earlier this year, aims to present a broader range of Southern cooking beyond just barbecue. Co-founder Malika Greene describes their goal of creating a brasserie-style atmosphere that showcases Southern flavors, such as Creole shrimp and lamb ribs with pomegranate sauce. Similarly, Appalachia, launched in June in Shoreditch, pays homage to Southern culinary traditions while infusing local London flair into its dishes.

The rising popularity of Southern cuisine in London is also linked to increased recognition and accolades. Both InterStellar BBQ and la Barbecue received Michelin stars in 2024, further validating the interest in this culinary genre. Social media has amplified this enthusiasm, with diners eager to share images of hearty, mouthwatering dishes. However, both chefs like Josh and Ali emphasize the patience and skill required to produce authentic barbecue, noting that the process often takes days.

Despite the excitement surrounding Southern food, challenges remain. Mursal points out the cultural differences in dining expectations; customers may not understand that when a dish sells out, it truly is gone for the day. Furthermore, biases persist regarding Southern cuisine, with some perceiving it merely as unhealthy comfort food. Activists like Safiya Robinson aim to change the narrative around Southern Black foodways, promoting a philosophy of "intentional nourishment" that highlights the depth and diversity of this culinary heritage.

As London embraces this dynamic evolution of Southern cuisine, it is clear that the unique blend of flavors, traditions, and innovations is paving the way for a new culinary identity that resonates with a broad audience.

Source: www.cntraveller.com