Eugene Rabkin’s 'Torn' Critiques Luxury Fashion’s Focus on Growth Over Creativity

The luxury fashion industry is navigating turbulent waters as it faces a decline in global spending, which fell to 358 billion euros in 2025, a 2% decrease from the previous year, according to Bain & Company. Author Eugene Rabkin sheds light on this predicament in his upcoming book, Torn: Fashion and Postmodernism, where he argues that the relentless pursuit of growth has stifled creativity within the sector.

Rabkin asserts that luxury brands, in their quest for expansion, have diluted their offerings by producing more conventional products masquerading as luxury. He stated, "The consequences were very much intended. They are businessmen… operating by the logic of constant expansion." This approach has led to a blurred line between high-end designer fashion and mass-market apparel, which he describes as the “merchification” of the industry.

With luxury prices skyrocketing—HSBC reports a staggering 54% increase in prices since 2019—Rabkin points out that items like Chanel’s iconic flap bag have surged to above $11,000, reflecting this trend. He believes that true luxury should return to its roots, emphasizing craftsmanship and quality over mere branding.

Rabkin advocates for luxury houses to embrace creative risks on the runway, suggesting that brands like Comme des Garçons could serve as models for how to present avant-garde designs that can later be simplified for retail. He criticized the tendency to rebrand successful items, exemplifying this with Loewe’s Puzzle bag, which saw its original design altered to highlight the brand’s logo, stating, "You don’t trust your customers. You think they just want the logo."

As the market evolves, luxury brands are also contending with new status symbols in travel and wellness, which have begun to attract affluent consumers away from traditional luxury goods. Rabkin warns that the shrinking pool of aspirational buyers—down from 400 million in 2022 to an estimated 340 million in 2025—could ultimately jeopardize the industry's cultural relevance. He emphasizes the need for a fashion ecosystem that nurtures independent designers and fosters innovative ideas, recalling the excitement generated by figures like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.

Rabkin's Torn will be officially released on Tuesday, offering a critical perspective on the current state of luxury fashion.

Source: wwd.com