In Buscalan, Tattoos Become Timeless Keepsakes Amidst Tradition
By Editor • August 20, 2026 • 2 min read
In the heart of the northern Philippines, the remote village of Buscalan serves as a haven for travelers seeking unique mementos of their journeys. Here, amid mist-covered mountains and lush rice paddies, the ancient art of tattooing thrives under the skilled hands of the legendary Apo Whang-od, the oldest traditional tattoo artist at 109 years old.
My own journey to this artistic sanctuary began with a grueling 12-hour drive from Manila, followed by a challenging hike and a precarious tram ride. Yet, the promise of a Kalinga tattoo, a symbol of my travels, was worth every effort. As I reviewed the various tribal designs, I was drawn to a sun motif, representing light and life. This would be my third tattoo, each one a celestial marker of my explorations across the globe.
Apo Whang-od, also known as Maria Oggay, has dedicated more than 90 years to the craft of hand-tapped tattoos, once reserved for Kalinga warriors. Her intricate designs are not only art but also tell stories of strength and honor, with her signature being a cluster of three dots representing herself and her grandnieces, the future of this tradition.
Upon arrival in Buscalan, I learned that Whang-od was temporarily hospitalized, leaving her eager visitors uncertain of her availability. However, her grandnieces and talented students continue to carry on her legacy. I was fortunate to be tattooed by Princess Sarah Baydon, a skillful artist in her own right, who expressed her gratitude for her mentor’s teachings.
Baydon explained the significance of Kalinga tattoos, which weave together patterns inspired by the natural and spiritual worlds. As she skillfully tapped the pomelo thorn into my skin, I felt the essence of Buscalan—the earthy scents and cool mist—as my tattoo came to life. This experience wasn’t just about the pain; it was about connecting with a culture that transcends generations.
As I departed the village, the fog lifted, revealing a clear path ahead. The warmth of my new tattoo was a constant reminder of the light I would carry with me, a tribute to the rich heritage of the Kalinga people and the artistry that binds us all.
Source: www.cntraveler.com
