Paul Smith's Nottingham Archive: A Glimpse into British Fashion's Rich Legacy

Paul Smith, the acclaimed British designer, has created a remarkable archive that tells the story of his journey in fashion while celebrating his Nottingham roots. Since opening his first shop in 1970 on Byard Lane, Smith has carved out a niche for himself with a distinct visual language that blends traditional tailoring with vibrant, unexpected designs.

At the heart of Smith's legacy is his Nottingham flagship store, housed in the historic Willoughby House. Although the original Byard Lane location closed in 2017, the current store continues to draw attention as a key city landmark. Since the brand's 50th anniversary in 2020, the Paul Smith Foundation has been curating an extensive archive, showcasing over 5,000 pieces from Smith’s personal collection, including garments, objects, and even the bicycle he crashed at 17.

Among the treasures in this 'Aladdin’s cave' is a quirky spaghetti-printed shirt from the 1980s, inspired by a unique wax model from Japan, alongside a bespoke wedding suit created in 1970. The collection also features custom pieces worn by icons like David Bowie. Smith expresses a deep connection to many items in the archive, stating, "There are many pieces that mean a great deal to me, but not always because they are the most well-known." Recently, he noted a resurgence of interest in his S/S 1999 womenswear collection, highlighting the archive’s role in sparking new inspiration.

Smith’s recent collections reflect a commitment to looking back to inform the future. The label has shifted its presentation to Milan for the past three menswear seasons, with the A/W 2026 collection showcasing a collaboration with new menswear head Sam Cotton. This partnership aims to reinterpret oversized silhouettes from the 1990s, revitalizing styles in outerwear and relaxed tailoring.

In addition to preserving his legacy, the Paul Smith Foundation actively supports emerging talent through initiatives like the Fashion Residency program, which offers designers access to the archive and mentorship. The biannual Archive Residency invites visual artists to engage with the collection and create new works inspired by it. "I am very proud of lots," Smith reflects, emphasizing his commitment to nurturing young creatives.

Source: www.wallpaper.com