Torishéju Dumi: A Designer's Journey of Heritage and Innovation in Fashion

In the heart of London’s Tottenham, British designer Torishéju Dumi has carved out a unique space for her burgeoning fashion label. Nestled within the Sarabande foundation—a creative hub established by the late Alexander McQueen—Dumi’s studio occupies two historic Queen Anne buildings. These structures, dating back to the early 1700s, have undergone minimal renovation, preserving their aged charm and showcasing the essence of decay, much like Dumi’s own design philosophy.

Dumi’s eponymous label, Torishéju, reflects a contemporary vision deeply rooted in cultural heritage. Her collections are not mere garments; they are explorations of historical costume recontextualized through innovative silhouettes and fabric manipulation. With a penchant for the spectral, her designs—often in shades of black—are infused with a fascination for the otherworldly, shaped by her Catholic upbringing and a love for gothic aesthetics. 'I’m always thinking: what else is out there?' she states, hinting at the spiritual depth within her work.

Born to a Nigerian mother and Nigerian-Brazilian father in north-west London, Dumi’s early experiences with clothing, from priestly robes to her mother’s outfits, sparked her interest in fashion, although she didn’t fully grasp its institutional side until later. Her artistic journey began at De Montfort University, where she could experiment across various mediums, igniting her passion for the craft. Influenced by avant-garde designers such as Rei Kawakubo and Alexander McQueen, Dumi realized fashion could transcend mere clothing, leading her to pursue formal education at the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, from which she graduated in 2021.

Her debut collection, 'Mami Wata,' launched in 2023, drew inspiration from water spirits in Nigerian and South American folklore, presenting garments that evoke a sense of submersion. The collection garnered significant attention, leading to her participation in Paris Fashion Week, where supermodel Naomi Campbell opened her spring/summer 2024 show.

Using deadstock fabric from designer Craig Green, Dumi’s 'Fire on the Mountain' collection juxtaposed draped silhouettes with traditional Nigerian attire, captivating audiences and retailers alike, including Dover Street Market’s Adrian Joffe. Dumi recalls the surreal feeling of her creations going from her Hackney flat to the runway, stating, 'I thought I’d just come back to my life, to teaching.' However, the demand for her collection opened new doors.

Recognized for her innovative approach, Dumi received the Savoir Faire Prize at the LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2025. Her work has attracted a celebrity clientele, with stars like Zendaya and Kendall Jenner donning her designs. Jenner notably chose Dumi for the Met Gala, where her tailored ensemble paid homage to queer Black culture and her Nigerian roots, further exploring the intersections of identity and fashion.

Dumi’s upcoming autumn/winter 2026 collection promises to build on her previous themes, blending historical references with modern sensibilities. She aims to elevate her designs, incorporating dramatic silhouettes inspired by Dior while maintaining her signature nod to Nigerian culture. As she prepares for her spring/summer 2027 collection debut later this year, Dumi discusses her creative process, which she describes as almost spiritual, involving fasting to hone the essence of her ideas.

Looking ahead, Dumi envisions her practice expanding beyond fashion into fields such as furniture design or art. Despite the challenges of running a young label, she attributes her perseverance to a supportive network of industry figures and mentors. 'The people who I surround myself with are human,' she reflects, emphasizing their determination to succeed collaboratively. Dumi aspires to one day lead a fashion house as a creative director, marking her place as a prominent Black female designer in the industry.

Source: www.wallpaper.com