Style weeks: Isabelle High quality on this season’s high collections, developments, and rising manufacturers

Autumn’s autumn season 2025/26 ended final week in Paris after exhibition captivators in New York, London and Milan. From February 6 to March 11, the designers gave life to their final collections of ladies’s clothes, establishing the tone for the season.

This prolonged session supplied the chance to measure the present trend tackle at a time when the posh market has been below stress for a yr as a consequence of financial situations and geopolitical tensions, and the trade is looking a interval of intense transformation.

Fashionnetwork.com spoke with division retailer consumers to collect their ideas concerning the season, rising developments and key conclusions. Isabelle High quality, director of ladies’s clothes at Le Bon Marché, shares her evaluation.

Fashionnetwork.com: What was your impression of this season 2025/26 of autumn?

Isabelle nicely: Paris stays, certainly, a very powerful and influential trend week. Milan remains to be engaging, whereas London felt considerably much less dynamic this season. Given the present political and financial panorama, along with the absence of sure reveals as a consequence of steady modifications within the artistic route, there was a notable feeling of uncertainty. Nonetheless, robust inventive visions, with highly effective collections and plain vitality, particularly in Paris. Basically, the manufacturers adopted a cautious method however adopted extra outlined artistic positions.

FNW: What key developments have been highlighted?

Sure: There’s a exceptional return to a extra female and sensual aesthetic. The collections felt much less uniform and moved away from the quiet luxurious pattern. Ladies’s trend feels freer and extra refined, notably in material choices, with a powerful combination of textures. The pores and skin performed an essential function, showing in garments and equipment, including wealth to the silhouettes and reinforcing a sense of sophistication.

Daring equipment, corresponding to giant necklaces and brooches, and structured shoulders emphasised power and belief. The waist was additionally a extremely outlined focus, stating a change of male tailoring of the previous seasons.

FNW: What different distinguished supplies outlined this new model of femininity?

YEAH: Past the pores and skin and knit clothes, the leather-based was in all places: in coats, jackets, bombers, skirts and pants. He had a barely extra rebellious edge, virtually punk, even showing in Chloé with an perspective impressed by the grunge. These components reinforce a way of freedom and individuality.

FNW: What applications prompted you the best impression?

YEAH: Alaïa was one of the crucial putting, with sculptural silhouettes, impeccable craft of knit clothes and dynamic motion that celebrates the physique. Pieter Mulier is doing a implausible job: his expertise in level clothes strategies is outstanding. Particularly I liked the hooded sweater, each for its refined crafts and an enveloping sensation of cocoon.

I additionally loved Sacai: Chitose Abe, who’s all the time modern, and his imaginative and prescient stays one of many strongest. Then there’s the row, which provided poetic simplicity, beautiful crafts and dominant silhouettes. Lastly, Miu Miu continues to redefine femininity, all the time with a daring and inventive method.

FNW: How are you approaching to purchase for the clientele of Le Bon Marché?

YEAH: Our objective is to stability the fundamental meals of timeless costumes and the excellent declaration items. Which means deciding on transportable important components and daring again stitching items. The identical method applies to the therapeutic of our model.

We’re fortunate to have a powerful Parisian clientele, and we purchased with their particular tastes and life in thoughts. The method could be very intuitive: we take into account the developments however we don’t proceed with out pondering. Creativity is as essential as industrial attraction.

FNW: What function do rising designers and unbiased manufacturers play of their technique?

YEAH: Discovering new abilities and promising designers is important for our buy method. We’re developments staff, however we should additionally current contemporary and thrilling names to shock our purchasers.

We now have devoted a number of manufacturers for these ascent designers, and our objective is to rotate new names each season. Unique collaborations are additionally a key a part of our technique.

FNW: What rising manufacturers caught their consideration this season?

YEAH: Zomer stood out, achieves a fantastic stability between creativity and portability. Alainpaul additionally had an impression: his motion and physique method, influenced by dance, offers him a novel inventive sensibility. It’s important to assist and present these new voices in trend.

FNW: What are your important items and equipment for subsequent winter?

YEAH: We see jackets with extensive and rounded shoulders and subtly tight waists within the tailoring. The bomber jackets, outer structured leather-based garments and stuffed stuffed animals are additionally key.

With respect to equipment, I used to be drawn to the dramatic boots to giant thigh, which channel the ability gown aesthetics of the 1980s. Feminine socks and socks additionally made an announcement. The belts outline the waist, whereas charms and key chains add a playful contact to the baggage.

The jewels transfer away from minimalism: we’re seeing a return to daring and maximalist equipment, which permit a extra customized and expressive model.

FNW: What excellent colours did you discover?

YEAH: Whereas black, grey and brown stay important, I additionally noticed a daring use of coloration: deep crimson, oxide, ocher and softer muffins.

With respect to the acquisition technique, we are going to stability the timeless autumnal tones with declaration tones that add depth and character, making certain that the important thing items inform a narrative and align with the artistic imaginative and prescient of a model.

FNW: What new artistic addresses stood out extra?

YEAH: Haider Ackermann in Tom Ford was the spotlight. Its tailoring is impeccable, and brings magnificence and sensuality with out being overtly provocative. His personal aesthetics fused with out issues with the DNA of the home, which isn’t a simple activity, and achieved it splendidly.

I additionally moved Julien Klausner’s debut in Dries Van Noten. The present had a powerful legacy and inventive transmission narration, which is all the time a problem, particularly with dries current. Klausner managed to honor the id of the model whereas bringing contemporary vitality.

And, in fact, Sarah Burton’s debut in Givenchy was one other distinguished second.

FNW: How have the style weeks advanced in latest seasons?

YEAH: A yr or two in the past, creativity was not on the forefront of the reveals. This season, there was a notable return to artistic vitality. Nonetheless, I consider that the true artistic resurgence is but to return; I hope you materialize fully subsequent season.

We’re originally of one thing massive, and September reveals can be extremely thrilling.