March three, 2025
Yamagata – Yoshoku, a style of Japanese delicacies based mostly on western dishes, is taking new steps in its evolution of the roundabout in Sumire, a restaurant within the Yamagata Prefecture, whose chef infuses household meals with French parts and strategies.
Hidefumi Komatsu, 51, is a educated French chef who takes three days to make his demi-glay sauce with Fond de Veau. It has a flambe inclination, the dramatic French cooking technique during which alcohol is poured on meals and lights up.
His Yoshoku Sumire restaurant was initially the French restaurant Chez Bon. Komatsu made the change in November 2023. After the COVID-19 pandemic, its purpose was to vary its conventional French delicacies of high-end to “meals that can entice extra individuals, from kids to adults.”
His “Shiawase no Napoburg” (¥ 1,760) is a hamburger steak in a mattress of Neapolitan spaghetti. Yoshoku’s traditional article portion of the dish is a traditional article with sauce based mostly on ketchup. The mix actually satisfies individuals, for the reason that hamburger steak and the Neapolitan spaghetti are favorites for a very long time in Japan.
The refreshing model of Komatsu of the sauce provides a sensation of contemporary tomatoes. Honey is added as a secret ingredient for a refined and comfortable sweetness. Recent and chewable paste goes effectively with sausages, mushrooms and different normal Neapolitan components.
Komatsu’s hamburger fillet is fabricated from 100% yamagata beef with purple onion. After either side are brown in a pan over excessive warmth, the steak slowly heats up in an oven of 180 C for roughly 12 minutes. Ample juice will move from the steak whenever you put a knife in it.
He might imagine that the mix of steak and spaghetti could be heavy in his abdomen, however the style of Komatsu’s kitchen is refined, and might simply eat it till the top.
You too can see French culinary strategies in your different dishes. For instance, the hen in cubes used within the rice omelette, a draped fried rice plate on a cooked egg sheet, is fabricated from confit model, slowly cooked in low temperature oil.
Nonetheless, your restaurant will not be pretentious. “I need individuals to be happy to come back to my restaurant as if it have been a ramen or Soba noodles,” he mentioned.
Komatsu is initially from town of Yamagata. He determined to be a chef of French delicacies when he was within the fourth grade of main faculty, after watching a tv program with Nobuo Murakami (1921-2005), the primary govt chef of the Imperial Resort. After graduating from the college, Komatsu fashioned in French eating places within the Tokyo metropolitan space. Then he returned to his hometown and opened his personal restaurant in 2004.
When he needed to change the industrial format of the restaurant as a result of COVID-19 pandemic, he had issues to create an Yoshoku menu, which he had by no means tried earlier than. He recalled the tastes he had loved as a baby in Yoshoku eating places: rice tortilla, neapolitan spaghetti and hamburger steak. At first, there have been solely six parts of their menu, however the quantity has elevated to roughly 30 with the addition of their very own creations.
Earlier than the pandemic, he had been anxious to supply an actual French delicacies in Yamagata, however has begun to assume extra from the perspective of consumers to see what sort of dishes would really like. Yoshoku eating places are usually extra frequented than costly French eating places, so it usually modifications the dishes of their menu in order that clients don’t get bored.
It’s tough to take kids to a full French restaurant. Nonetheless, his little daughter’s buddies take pleasure in his mother and father to take him to his restaurant. He noticed his friends dig at his lunch with smiles on his faces and mentioned: “I feel I made a great choice.”