Ideological (and financial) battle over quick vogue

Paris – Two irreconcilable vogue visions are the confrontation. On the one hand, Shein, a Chinese language vogue large extremely quick, advocates vogue that’s “accessible to all.” Alternatively, Vestiaire Collective, a excessive -end French vogue vogue pioneer, denounces a poisonous promise based mostly on social exploitation, textile waste and the hazard of a complete industrial ecosystem.

“Trend for all, distress for some.” With this overwhelming slogan, Dressed Collective responded to Shein’s promoting campaigns, which defend a imaginative and prescient of vogue as a “elementary proper”, reasonably priced for all. In keeping with the Director of Impression of Vestiaire Collective, Dounia Wone, the actual price of this proper is way greater than the value: sacrificed native employment, misplaced textile data and a contaminated planet. The promise to “democratize” vogue relies on the working situations reported as abusive.

A seductive financial promise … however unsustainable? Shein has conquered the world with a easy components: hundreds of articles, up to date in actual time, at extremely aggressive costs. A gown for 12 euros, delivered at 72 hours, returned if needed … or mendacity. Behind this spectacular logistics operation there’s a mannequin based mostly on a frantic manufacturing rhythm, as much as 75 hours of labor per week in workshops denounced by a number of non -governmental organizations (NGOs), and a return price so excessive that justifies the burial or incineration of recent clothes not bought.

Dressed Collective instantly assaults this logic: “Why ought to vogue be disposable?” The model asks in your campaigns. It states that this mannequin doesn’t embrace any actual price: neither for the setting, nor for social rights, nor for native economies.

Collective dressing, activist and activated

The assault of dressing collective doesn’t cease on the slogans. Since 2022, the platform has progressively forbidden greater than 70 quick vogue manufacturers, together with Shein, Zara, Boohoo, H&M and Prettylittlitting. This technique goes towards the imperatives of quantity in digital commerce, however appears to be paying off: 92 % of consumers remained lively after these choices, in line with the platform, which is compensating for the second -hand market replace.

The corporate now not hides the truth that he’s now a political participant. He’s actively campaigning for a stricter regulation of the textile sector, notably towards Asian vogue giants. In view of the anti-fast vogue invoice, directed by the member of the Anne-Cile Violland Parliament, which supplied a Malus Bonus system and a limitation within the promoting of polluting manufacturers. The textual content was buried in March 2025 in a chilling political silence.

Lobbying, quotes and grey areas

The controversy was revived with the shock appointment of Christophe Castaner, former Inside Minister, to the Strategic Company Social Duty Committee of Shein (CSR). For the Co -founder of Alleyire Collective, Fanny Moizant, this can be a “nationwide scandal.” She believes that this arrival coincides surprisingly with the withdrawal of the invoice. “Shein was very clever. They rushed a regulation that might have price tens of millions,” he advised Madame Figaro.

In keeping with Moizant, France might have change into a world chief within the regulation of disposable vogue, and Shein has not stopped at something to keep away from this.

A struggle of narratives as a lot as a crash of fashions

This duel stands out two antagonistic narratives round consumption: Shein sells velocity, novelty and accessibility, on the value of an opaque and controversial industrial mannequin. DVIIAIRE COLLECTIVE defends sustainability, high quality and circularity, on the value of teaching shoppers and a deep cultural change.

However this battle just isn’t restricted to public statements: it’s already influencing legislative work.

Debate regulation

Regardless of the preliminary withdrawal of the anti-fast vogue invoice, the mobilization continues to press the federal government. Beneath the impact of the extraordinary protection of the media and the rising outrage, the regulation was reviewed and returned to the parliamentary agenda, though in a diluted model. Whereas the unhealthy bonus system was retained, the utmost tax was lowered and promoting restrictions relaxed. This was a partial victory for defenders in a extra accountable approach, however a transparent signal that the strain works.

As an indication of the occasions, from high fashion homes to unbiased labels, a number of trade leaders in flip denounce the Shein mannequin, praising the costiaire collective braveness and asking for a structural reform. This dynamic might mark a turning level: the criticism of vogue of low speedy price is now not solely the reserve of activists.

Counterattacks

Because the Anti -Trend Trend Invoice addresses its examination within the Senate on June 10, Shein is offending. The Chinese language model, conscious of the regulatory menace, is displaying an enormous promoting marketing campaign signed by Havas, to Hamille the message that “vogue is a proper, not a privilege.” This appeal offensive relies on the argument of buying energy, aimed toward gathering public opinion towards the laws thought-about elitist.

However the vogue sector just isn’t intimidated. The designers, entrepreneurs, federations and influencers are taking a place one after one other. Victoire Satto, founding father of Good Items, summarizes the state of affairs: “It’s no coincidence that Shein communicates a lot: he’s afraid.” For his half, Fanny Moizant, president of the Dressed collective, continues to denounce the harmful financial and environmental influence of the extremely -low price mannequin. She factors out that the regulation doesn’t intend to make vogue inaccessible, however to revive a aggressive steadiness, whereas establishing clear limits in an trade that’s being executed in the direction of exhaustion.

Jocelyn Meire, founding father of Fashk and president of the Ecole de Confection de la France, textile of the Sud Région, additionally spoke strongly. He recalled a earlier alternate with the president of the Grand Port Maritime of Marseille, which is none aside from the CSR of Shein advisor, who described the thought of ​​an environmental penalty in mass -produced clothes in indignified situations as “disgusting.” Meire reacted with irony and anger: “When clothes turns into quicker than ethics and cheaper than dignity, we’re now not merely consuming vogue, we’re collaborating in a collapse.”

In direction of a extra round future?

Is the way forward for vogue in second hand and traceability? Dressed Collective is satisfied of this. Specifically, the corporate participates within the improvement of the digital merchandise passport (DPP), a digital passport that can determine the origin, composition and restore of a product. This expertise is supported by the European Fee and will lastly rework the textile market by selling resale, transparency and circularity.

Dressed even gives for a future through which manufacturers obtain part of the resalls made on their platform, a brand new type of sustainable earnings aligned with the round economic system.

At a time when public opinion is polarized across the value of clothes, the battle between Shein and Vestiaire Collective goes past the purely business. Ask our collective priorities: produce an increasing number of for much less and fewer, or eat much less, however higher?