Discovering Serenity in Japan's Hidden Hokuriku Region

In the tranquil embrace of Japan's Hokuriku region, Pico Iyer recounts a serene experience at the Kayotei ryokan, nestled in Yamanaka Onsen. With his wife, Hiroko, he enjoyed a peaceful evening in a cypress-wood bath, surrounded by the raw beauty of nature, as a full moon illuminated the forested hills. Their stay at this intimate inn, steeped in over 1,300 years of tradition, provided a stark contrast to the chaos of Kyoto, where they had earlier navigated through throngs of tourists and urban noise.

Kayotei, founded by the visionary Masanori Kamiguchi, 93, showcases the artistry of the region, featuring treasures like intricate lacquerware and a kombu sommelier. Each guest is treated to a culinary journey with a nine-course meal, highlighting local ingredients, including rice cultivated with the help of ducklings instead of pesticides. The ryokan's general manager, Jiro Takeuchi, proudly remarked, "This tea is grown on the mountain. Actually, we own the mountain," emphasizing the inn's deep-rooted connection to its surroundings.

Iyer's journey was motivated by a desire to escape the throngs of tourists flocking to Kyoto's famed sites. With over 75 million visitors inundating the city annually, he set out to explore the underappreciated treasures of Ishikawa and Fukui prefectures. Despite its allure, Yamanaka remains largely undiscovered, attracting about 36 foreign visitors daily, while neighboring Fukui ranked 46th in international arrivals, with fewer than one foreign visitor for every 600 tourists in Tokyo.

On his travels, Iyer was inspired by Hannah Kirshner’s memoir, which details her transformative experience living in Yamanaka, where she fell in love with the culture and community. As he strolled through Kakusenkei Gorge with Kirshner, he witnessed the deep connections she forged with the locals, who greeted her warmly, showcasing the town's welcoming spirit. "People say that Japan is impenetrable," she noted, reflecting on how community bonds can break down barriers.

In addition to the warmth of the locals, Yamanaka offers a glimpse into Japan’s rich traditions. Iyer visited Hanamurasaki, a contemporary ryokan run by Kohei and Manami Yamada, which blends old and new. The ambiance is vibrant, contrasting with the serene Kayotei. Here, Iyer enjoyed a modern take on afternoon tea, served with vegetable sushi and meringues, while the nearby landscapes of Fukui captivated him with their pastoral charm.

In Fukui, Iyer discovered a region dedicated to preserving its heritage. He visited etoe, a workshop famous for its high-quality knife handles, where he met a young woman who, despite her pop star aspirations, passionately guided visitors in crafting traditional items. The spirit of community and commitment to traditions was palpable, as another local, Haruka Kudo, shared insights about the region’s cultural pride and the efforts of those returning to their roots.

Source: www.cntraveler.com