Aaron Esh's Visionary Overhaul of AllSaints

In a bold move to redefine AllSaints, Chief Creative Officer Aaron Esh is steering the brand toward a fresh identity that resonates with contemporary fashion enthusiasts. Esh’s strategy is not about discarding the brand’s storied past but about reinventing it, carefully blending its historical essence with modern aesthetics.

During a recent showcase at AllSaints’ East London studio, Esh highlighted a significant transformation in the brand’s design approach. He has eliminated the majority of the old inventory and implemented a studio system, marking a departure from its previous commercial-focused operations. “All legacy pattern blocks from the last three decades have been dropped,” he noted, underscoring his commitment to re-engineering staple items like leather jackets and jeans for a more luxurious feel at accessible prices.

Esh, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, aims to offer a luxury experience without the exorbitant price tag often associated with high-end fashion. He explained, “Being able to give that to people at a price point of 500 pounds, not 5,000 pounds, feels like a really amazing proposition.” Collaborating with notable figures in the industry, including stylist Katy England, Esh’s refreshing vision is already generating buzz in London’s fashion scene.

Growing up in Islington, Esh is well-versed in AllSaints’ legacy, which has long been intertwined with London’s unique culture and craftsmanship. He expressed a desire to cultivate a distinct character for AllSaints customers, moving beyond age and demographics to focus on a shared identity. “I want people to see someone walking down the street and say ‘they’re very AllSaints,’” he remarked.

AllSaints currently boasts over 300 stores globally and a significant presence in wholesale markets, particularly at Nordstrom, where it ranks among top brands. Esh is keenly aware of the scale and complexity of operations at AllSaints, which has necessitated a shift in his role since joining the company in November. He now participates in high-level meetings alongside the executive team, managing a workforce of over 2,000 people.

One of Esh's initial priorities was to revamp the production process. He believes in creating an environment where designers can thrive, moving away from a screen-based model to one that fosters hands-on creativity. “It’s much more about setting up processes and systems for people to work in a way that gets a product like this,” he stated. The new approach includes fitting clothing on real bodies and reviewing designs physically, allowing for a deeper exploration of fabric and fit.

Esh envisions AllSaints as a comprehensive wardrobe brand, integrating everything from simple T-shirts to standout outerwear that reflects London’s vibrant attitude. He is particularly passionate about timeless items, such as biker jackets, while also experimenting with new leather colors and finishes in upcoming collections. Denim, which Esh affectionately refers to as “leather’s quiet cousin,” is being revitalized with a focus on fit and consistency.

As Esh navigates the brand's British identity, he opts for a gritty, nightlife-inspired aesthetic that diverges from typical heritage themes. He recognizes a gap in the market for a British contemporary brand that appeals to those seeking a polished yet edgy style, particularly in contrast to prominent French labels.

The brand’s international appeal is growing, with significant markets emerging in Asia, including Taiwan and South Korea, where AllSaints is considered semi-luxury. Esh sees potential for expansion in regions like Europe and parts of Asia, while the U.S. remains a stronghold.

Alongside the renewed product offerings, Esh is introducing a refreshed Ramskull logo, inspired by military and handwritten elements from the brand's history. The new branding will be integrated across products and marketing materials.

With a strategic focus on experiential marketing, Esh plans to engage customers directly through store activations rather than traditional runway shows. In a unique approach, AllSaints will host a significant overnight event to launch new collections globally. The brand is also set to release a creative zine, 'The Ram,' featuring contributions from emerging London talents, further bridging fashion and culture in the city.

Source: wwd.com