Revamping AllSaints: Aaron Esh's Mission to Restore Coolness

At the heart of London's East End, AllSaints is gearing up for a transformative new chapter under the guidance of its chief creative officer, Aaron Esh. With a background in fashion that includes his own successful label, Esh is set to unveil his vision for the brand on September 1, following nearly a year of dedicated work. The pivotal question: Can Esh breathe new life into AllSaints and reinstate its status as a cultural icon?

In August, Esh took the bold step of wiping AllSaints' Instagram account clean, starting fresh with a series of monochrome images showcasing himself and his creative team, which includes notable figures like art director Jamie Reid and stylist Katy England. This strategic move comes as part of a broader effort to redefine the brand’s aesthetic, moving away from its past associations with indie sleaze style of the early 2000s — think studded belts and distressed jeans — toward a more sophisticated and contemporary image.

AllSaints, founded in 1994 by Stuart Trevor and Kait Bolongaro, has experienced significant ups and downs throughout its history. After a major expansion under Kevin Stanford and a subsequent leadership transition to Will Beedle, the brand struggled to maintain its edge and allure. Esh acknowledges the challenges he faces, particularly with the brand’s creative structure, stating, “The structure and the systems of the creative team here were really bad…but what did that give me? An opportunity to build it.” With a workforce of 2,000 and the support of CEO Peter Wood, Esh is poised to make impactful changes.

Wood, who is celebrating eight years as CEO, has seen AllSaints navigate both prosperity and crisis, including a significant investment that pulled the company back from the brink in 2011. Under his leadership, the brand achieved impressive revenue figures prior to the pandemic, but has since adapted to survive amidst global challenges such as inflation and supply chain disruptions. As of February 1, 2025, AllSaints reported revenues of £441.3 million, down slightly from the previous year, indicating a need for continued strategic growth and adaptation.

To elevate AllSaints, Esh is focused on a distinctly London-inspired aesthetic, aiming to package the city’s unique style for a global audience. “There’s a very specific way that people dress, and part of that is high-low,” he explains, highlighting the brand’s commitment to blending luxury with accessibility. Esh and Wood believe this approach will resonate not only in the UK but also in international markets where AllSaints has a strong presence, such as Taiwan, which ranks as the third-largest revenue market for the brand.

Looking ahead, Wood envisions expanding AllSaints' footprint in Europe without the need for extensive new store openings. Instead, he plans to leverage partnerships, such as the one with Zalando, which boasts an impressive customer base. This collaboration aims to enhance AllSaints’ visibility and accessibility without the overhead costs typically associated with physical retail expansions. Currently, the brand operates with a 70% direct-to-consumer model, which Wood emphasizes as crucial for maintaining momentum and energy.

As Esh prepares to unveil his vision for AllSaints, both he and Wood understand the importance of a modernized digital presence. A complete redesign of the brand’s website is underway, aiming to ensure a seamless experience for consumers looking to connect with AllSaints. “We’re going to make it easy for customers to access the brand,” Wood assures, indicating a commitment to enhancing the brand's appeal in a rapidly evolving retail landscape.

Source: www.vogue.com