Des Kohan: The Hidden Gem of LA Fashion Embracing New York Fashion Week

In the heart of Los Angeles, Des Kohan has carved out a unique niche in the fashion world over the past 21 years. This September, owner Desiree Kohan is set to break her long-standing tradition of skipping New York Fashion Week (NYFW), as she prepares to support a trio of independent female designers: Ashlynn Park of Ashlyn, Maria McManus, and Alissa Zachary of High Sport. Kohan, who has always prioritized a more personal connection to fashion over seasonal runways, recognizes the importance of these designers in her boutique's offerings.

"I feel that they’re being authentic to who they are, and they’re all three unique," Kohan shared about the designers. Their authenticity resonates with her philosophy, reminiscent of advice from Dries Van Noten on nurturing slow growth through loyal partnerships. As the landscape of luxury retail shifts, with consolidation and bankruptcies reshaping the industry, Kohan's return to NYFW represents a pivotal moment for independent designers.

The wholesale market for luxury goods has faced upheaval, leading to a greater need for specialty boutiques like Des Kohan. As major retailers become more risk-averse, smaller stores are stepping up as crucial supporters of emerging talent. Alongside Kohan, other independent retail figures are gaining prominence, including Brian Bolke of The Conservatory in Dallas and Lisa Cancelli of Viola Lovely in Boston.

Ashlyn Park's recent shows have highlighted the growing influence of these boutique buyers, who are willing to invest in new designers. Kohan has been perfecting her approach of fostering long-term relationships with designers for two decades, and the results speak for themselves. Remarkably, Des Kohan has never offered a sale in its 21-year history, a testament to Kohan's discerning sense of style and the loyalty of her clientele.

The boutique's physical presence is integral to its identity, with only 15% of sales coming from e-commerce. Kohan's dedication to a tactile shopping experience has led to an impressive 20% annual growth in gross sales over the past five years. Her clientele includes notable figures like actor Tracee Ellis Ross and fashion influencer Chriselle Lim, with word-of-mouth driving new customers through the door.

Des Kohan recently moved to a larger space on Fairfax Avenue, expanding from 850 to 5,000 square feet, which includes a stylish retail area and residential apartments. Kohan emphasizes that her store's design encourages exploration and discovery, featuring a salon-style layout with natural light and comfortable seating for clients. "We’re off the beaten path by design," she explains, highlighting her commitment to creating a unique retail experience.

When Kohan launched Des Kohan in 2005, she faced stiff competition from established department stores like Barneys New York. To differentiate herself, she made a bold decision to ensure that 80% of her inventory was exclusive. This strategy was informed by her early career in Milan, where she built relationships with designers that would later benefit her retail endeavors.

Today, Kohan collaborates closely with designers, often customizing pieces to align with her store’s aesthetic and customer preferences. Her unique buying approach blends product development with an instinct for timeless, wearable fashion. For the upcoming season, she features exclusive designs that reflect a West Coast sensibility alongside sculptural and conceptual elements.

As Kohan looks towards NYFW and the future, she remains committed to her core philosophy: prioritizing individual expression over fleeting trends. Her dedication to showcasing local and independent designers has positioned Des Kohan as a vital player in the evolving fashion landscape, where authenticity and community continue to thrive.

Source: www.vogue.com